In
my early thirties, I began to grow weary in my work as a field biologist. I
had been moving from one place to another every two years or so, learning an
entirely new ecosystem and culture each time, but feeling fundamentally an
outsider at the end of the day. I had sat around evening fires with Bushmen
at the edge of the Okavango Delta in Botswana, with Hmong villagers in a
remote forest in northern Thailand, and had worked in Panama and Costa Rica
on forest restoration. Though I had learned a great deal as I moved about, I
found myself yearning for the wisdom that could only be attained through
long-term intimacy with a place, the kind of wisdom I had perceived among
indigenous people I had come to know.
So I returned to the San Francisco Bay watershed, where
my family had been living for six generations, and where I had grown up in
the Sierra foothills above Nevada City. My goal was to begin a lifelong
study of the natural and human ecology of my native region.
My first job was as environmental programs director for
the North Fork Rancheria of Mono Indians of the upper San Joaquin River
watershed. It gave me an opportunity to begin reconciling a dissonance
between ecological science and traditional knowledge, which had been
troubling me ever since I walked out of the University of California,
Berkeley, degree in hand, and found that the natural world did not fit
neatly into the categories I had studied. Working with the tribe required a
merging of traditional and modern knowledge. Under the guidance of elders,
we tended the landscape in traditional ways to enable plants valuable for
cultural uses, such as basket weaving, to thrive. At the same time, we
cleared brush and rehabilitated the soil using scientific fire prevention
principles and knowledge of soil microbial dynamics.
Three years ago an opportunity arose to work in my
native Yuba watershed, at a time when an unprecedented collaboration between
Indians and non-Indians had just begun there, born out of a shared goal of
restoring salmon to the upper Yuba River. A non-Indian man, Bill Jacobsen,
had recently relocated to the area from western Marin County, where he had
been intimately involved in the successful reestablishment of Coho salmon to
a tributary of Olema Creek. This process involved reducing the physical
barrier where the creek flowed under Highway One, and the consistent
carrying out of a ceremony passed down to Jacobsen by a Suquamish elder from
British Columbia, intended to call the salmon in from their adult feeding
grounds in the Pacific Ocean to a section of creek where no salmon had been
seen in 70 years. In the winter immediately following these modifications
(1999-2000), significant numbers of Coho were spawning upstream of the
former barrier.
After settling in the Yuba watershed, Jacobsen talked
with Jason Rainey, a Yuba watershed native serving as director of the South
Yuba River Citizens League (SYRCL), and they agreed that a ceremony on the
Yuba required a Native American presence. Don Ryberg, chairman of the local
Tsi-Akim Maidu Tribe, agreed to participate. On a cold January morning in
2006, Jacobsen conducted the ceremony on the middle reaches of the South
Yuba River, above Englebright Dam, which blocks all passage of anadromous
fish. At the end of the ceremony, Ryberg said: “That was all fine and good,
but the salmon on the Yuba don’t speak Suquamish, they speak Maidu.”
During
the next several months, Ryberg sought out tribal elders and discovered that
knowledge of the Maidu First Salmon ceremony had not been lost. That same
year, in October, when the few remaining fall-run Yuba salmon were ascending
the river below Englebright dam, the ceremony was performed in the Maidu
language, for the first time in over 150 years. It was a modern ceremony,
inclusive of two historically oppositional cultures and the reality of a
barricaded and highly plumbed river system.
At sunrise, Maidu traditional hunters, who had fasted and prepared for this
day, were sent out to spear a single adult Chinook. This sacred fish,
weighing close to 40 pounds, was wrapped in a ceremonial blanket and carried
by the hunters and additional spirit runners ten miles upstream and around
the dam. They ran past the most critical spawning habitat remaining for Yuba
salmon, the last operating hydraulic mine and, after a boat ride across the
reservoir, arrived around midday at Bridgeport State Park. There they were
greeted by hundreds of people and the fragrance of smoking salmon, brought
by Yurok people from the Klamath River and roasted the traditional way, on
redwood sticks. During the ceremony, all participants circled the fire and
sent their intention out to the Salmon People that their return to this area
is welcomed by the human community. Some of the ceremonial fish was fed to
elders, some returned to the river. Everyone feasted.
Honoring the cross-cultural origins of the nascent idea, and aware that the
restoration of salmon to the upper Yuba would require a unified effort by
everyone concerned, SYRCL, the tribe, and others formed the Calling Back the
Salmon Committee, with equal representation of Indian and non-Indian people.
It brought together individuals with specific regional knowledge of
fisheries biology and ecology, history, archeology, and media, as well as
indigenous knowledge. It has been meeting regularly ever since, and has
delved into issues that have long divided the local community.
The Calling Back the Salmon Ceremony has become an annual event, and will
take place again on October 10, 2009; all people are welcome. I will be one
of the spirit runners, as I was last year. This ceremony is a prayer to the
Salmon People, offered in acknowledgement that to be ready to receive them
we must heal the wounds we have inflicted on each other and on the earth.
Here in my home watershed, I find that a reconciliation is taking place.
Boundaries between areas of knowledge that seemed to clash are melting away
as we realize that we can include all effective approaches that are rooted
in understanding of place. With our many differences, we join in a community
united around a common goal: calling back the Yuba River salmon.
Derek Hitchcock is an ecologist who works for the South Yuba River
Citizens League.
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